Widenmayerstraße to Literaturhaus [On foot]
Unable to find a book shop after an hour of walking through the city centre, I decided to visit Literaturhaus, site of the famous Oskar Maria cafe.
On my way I stumbled upon a curious Michael Jackson memorial. In a tiny park opposite the Bayerischer Hof hotel, beneath the statue of sixteenth century musician Orlando di Lasso, lies a host of MJ memorabilia placed or hung on all four sides. This, I learned later, emerged soon after the pop star’s death in 2009, when local authorities refused to build an official memorial. Three and a half years on the shrine looked fresh and alive, while the host, Orlando di Lasso, stood high above all this, ignored and forgotten.
The Oskar Maria brasserie is named after the 20th century Munich writer Oscar Maria Graf. I had not heard of him. At the cafe I took a seat beside the window and looked around. Split in two levels, the arched interiors looked large and elegant and hollow. I waited for someone to come and take my order.
Let me offer you some advice, dear reader: avoid famous cafes like plague. The waiters there are, to put it mildly, indifferent, robot-like, and sad-faced. The food may be good, the ambience charming, and the crowd enthusiastic, but if you are sensitive, like I am, to the manners of waiters, such places will on most occasions disappoint. Instead, choose that bakery in the corner or a Konditorei on a side-street, where a plump rose-cheeked mädchen will treat you like the prince of Denmark.
The redeeming feature at Oskar Maria was a quote on the silverware, which revealed itself as I sliced through my apfelküchen:
Es muss doch jetzt bald wahr sein, dass ich berühmt bin.
It surely will soon be true that I am famous.